We previously discussed in these pages how the legendary Border Patrolman, Bill Jordan, encouraged then-S&W President Carl Hellstrom to produce a K-Frame revolver chambered in the.
Without the flat, there would be insufficient room for the cylinder to close. The minimal clearance between the gas ring / yoke and the barrel flat is evident on this Model 19-3. The barrel flat is evident on this K-Frame Model 13. 38 Special +P round (21,500 psi maximum). 38 Special (which began its life as a blackpowder round, and only produced a SAAMI-spec, 18,300 psi maximum pressure), nor the later (1970s era). This milled flat reduced the wall thickness of the barrel extension a slight amount, but did not create a structural problem at the low pressures of the. 32 caliber), the barrel extension that poked through the frame and formed the forcing cone was slightly relieved at the 6 O’Clock position to make room for the swinging yoke and cylinder to close. 38 S&W Special guns (“K-Frame,” in factory parlance, as opposed to the smaller “I-Frame,” designed around the. 38 Hand Ejector went through several minor changes and eventually morphed into the legendary Model 10, in 1957, following a change to the hammer block mechanism in December of 1944, and the incorporation of a new “short action” hammer throw in February of 1948. 32 Hand Ejector, which barely preceded it). 38 Hand Ejector Model, which was the second of the solid frame, swinging cylinder guns produced by Smith & Wesson (the first being the. The beginning of our story starts with the early. We’ve covered a bit of the L-Frame’s history before in the pages of RevolverGuy, but it’s time to take a deeper look at how this revolver design came about, and pay tribute to its creator, Mr. Some of those favorites have come and gone from the Smith & Wesson catalog over the years, but the ever-popular L-Frame family of revolvers remains, and continues to sell strong for the team from Springfield, Massachusetts. If you post up the whole number (or all but the last two or three) I can narrow it down even tighter.With a company history that dates back to 1852, Smith & Wesson has seen a lot of milestones and has delivered a host of classic designs to the shooting public. Using these tables together, you should be able to narrow down a decent range of when your gun is from. These are model changes, meaning some feature or aspect of the gun changed a bit.ġ0-11 started in 1997 (probably not this or later, since your gun is blue) If you find the 10-1, or 10-8, or 10-XY, you can narrow it down a bit further. The ranges are SUPER tight here, as SW really started making a ton of guns then, and most models shared serial ranges. If it has a one or two digit number, and THEN a "D," and THEN some more numbers, (meaning the "D" will be either the second or third character in the serial, and all other characters are numbers) it is from 1977-1983Īfter 1983 the serials get crazy and will be in the format of three letters, and then four numbers. If it starts with "D" and has only numbers after the "D," the gun is from 1968-1977. (If the serial starts with "C", but is C402923 or less, the gun actually isn't a model 10, but earlier.) If it starts with a "C" and has only numbers following the C, then it is pre 1968. Since we are assuming it is a model 10, that is where I'll start the serial ranges. Before 1957, it wouldn't say "10, or Model 10" or anything like that anywhere on it. If it is really marked as a model 10, and isn't a. (SW added dashes after the main model number to designate model variations) Example "10-3 or 10-5" This is the model number. Also, if you open the cylinder, it will reveal a piece of metal on the left (probably where you got the 4 digit number) Under, or above that, there might be a number along with your 10. (never two, and if it has zero letters, then it actually pre-dates the model 10) A model 10 WILL ALWAYS have either one or three letters in it. The serial of a model 10 will have AT LEAST one letter in it, and will almost certainly be 7 characters total. If it is a newer gun, the serial might be elsewhere on the gun as well. If it has grips that cover that section of the frame, you may have to remove them. The actual serial number will be on the butt - the very bottom of the gun's grip. The assembly numbers helped the people at the factory keep track of what parts went to what gun. The 4 digit number you've posted is an assembly number.
0 kommentar(er)
